behind door #1

One door down, three more to go!

Finally, after 2 1/2 years of temporary solutions, we once again have a real bathroom door. (Remodeling is not for the faint of heart, or the modest.)
 

The color is “thunderbird” from Benjamin Moore. We used Natura zero-VOC paint in a semi-gloss finish.

Here’s how it looks from the bathroom side. We also have plans to mount a narrow full-length mirror to this side of the door.

The attachment plate that connects to the track hardware was recessed into the top of the door for an extra clean look.

We ended up choosing the Linnea pulls. We considered designing our own pull and having it fabricated, but in the end we were happy to find a well-designed product that was affordable (we bought directly from the company and received an architect discount) and that we could have in our hands in two days!

To keep the bottom of the door from flapping against the wall, Kyle notched out the bottom of the door and install a recessed aluminum channel (that was painted to match). This channel then slides over a floor guide that is screwed to the floor. In the photo above, the door is pushed all the way back to show what the guide looks like, but we’ll eventually install stops in the track so you can’t push the door too far and the guide will always be hidden no matter what position the door is in.

I also finally hung my Seattle neighborhoods print, which was a 30th birthday gift from September! I’ll take more detailed shots later, but I decided to mount it on a thin piece of plywood instead of a traditional frame. (We’ll also probably move the print around, this is just the only place where there is a nail in the wall!)

The blue/teal does look different depending on the lighting (and as seen in these different photos), but overall we like. A lot.

 

32 thoughts on “behind door #1

  1. fantastic color! the pulls look great, and i’m impressed that they gave you such a good discount. i was wondering how you were going to keep the doors from swinging at the bottom without having some kind of track, i like your solution.

  2. Looks beautiful. Random question: Is it possible to lock the door? If so, how does it work?

  3. yeah, the pulls are really nice. We like how they’re a bit asymmetrical and that flat metal part keeps the palm of your hand from smudging the door!

  4. That looks very cool. I like how you guys keep at things until you get them the way you want them. Enjoy your stylish privacy!

  5. Once again, beautiful work!

    We got off-the-shelf pulls in a similar shape for our pantry, and are thinking about using them for our closets that use barn door track. Looking forward to finding out how you made the door. Love the lower channel solution, too.

  6. hi yolanda,

    actually we didn’t really make the door, we just bought a pre-primed solid core door slab, cut the hole for the handles, cut the track into the bottom and recessed the door hangers into the top. Pretty simple and affordable really. Much better than our previous experiement with the steel doors;)

  7. we did find some hardware but are still experimenting. will do a post on it for ya. Here’s a link to it. It gets mounted on the bathroom side in the face of the door on the opposite edge of the handle It’s recessed into the door and when in the locked position that piece sticks out to keep the door from sliding past the jamb. There’s a strike piece that gets mounted to the jamb to keep from damaging the wood.

  8. It looks amazing! Wish I could see it in person :(. The door and your Seattle poster, which I LOVE, reminds me of your wedding invitations. I see the blue/brown combo is still a fav.

  9. You need to come back and visit! The “guest quarters” are almost done…you could even sleep on your own Aerobed. 😉

  10. If the door is opened by sliding to the right, why does the wall track extend also to the left? I can’t remember- does it go all the way to another opening where there will be more doors? Even so, would a door ever be on that part of the track where you have just hung the Seattle print?

  11. Good question! The bedroom door to the left is part of the same track. That door will slide to the right, but not as far as the Seattle print. But since the doors were relatively close, we liked the look of a single track. We’ll also install a stop in the track so the doors can only slide in one direction.

  12. I feel so lucky to have found your blog. We are also considering barn doors and exposed hardware. Can you tell me who makes the tracks and hangers you’ve used for the doors?
    Thank you. Keep up the great work. It is inspirational!

  13. Thanks Tracy,

    The track and hangers are from PC Henderson (purchased from Builders Hardware in Seattle). We painted the track and wall brackets, but left the hangers unpainted. We found PC Henderson to be more affordable than similar options from Richard Wilcox or Crown Industrial (for our situation anyway).

  14. Love this! I hate swinging doors – and pocket doors can be tricky. This solution is so elegant. Love the color! And your towels – love the color of your towels.

  15. Thank you for the sources. I’m looking for an affordable option!
    Do mind a few more detailed questions? Is the track you used the 280(Pemko for Henderson) with the 2815 brackets? I have no options of seeing this in person and am relying on online catalogs.
    Since the doors must overlap on the sides and the top, did you make your framed doorways smaller or did you order a wider door? How did you handle the height? ( In your pictures all the opening line up beautifully)
    Do you find these doors to be noisy when you slide them open and closed?
    I really appreciate you sharing your experience and having a chance to learn from your successes!

  16. Hi Tracy,

    We used the Henderson 290 which is on page 1136 of this pdf link http://www.builders-hardware.com/data/catalog/BHS_Catalog_DoorTrack.pdf

    The door slabs are best purschased in standard sizes of 6′-8″ tall by a standard width of anything from 30,32,34,and 36 inches. We gave a bit of overlap at each jambe of about 1 inche and that’s how we set the dimensions for the opening. You can also get 6′-10″ and 7ft tall doors pretty standard. anything wider than 36 inches or taller than 7 ft and you’ll pay a premium for custom sizes.

    not noisy at all. this does depend mostly on the track typ. The ones with steel wheels and steel track make the most noisy. The plastic/nylon wheels are pretty quiet.

  17. Oh, that is such a beautiful color!! It looks awesome, no surprise there. It’s so funny, because I’m not a “modern decor” type of gal, but I think everything you have done in your place is so, so great. Unrelated question: could you do a post in 6 months/year detailing how well your IKEA cabinets are holding up? Recently hubby and I started thinking of putting them in our kitchen because we’d be able to renovate MUCH sooner if we did, rather than getting oh, $20K cabinets. Happy Monday!

  18. I want to marry this colour, on the beach, on a warm summer’s day.

    Or just paint my entire kitchen in it. The perfect take robin’s egg blue.

  19. Stunning!! I, too, was wondering how you’d lock the door. What a simple and ingenious solution!

  20. Do you guys have a link to the manufacturer of the track system you used? as well as the hardware for the track/door attachement. Been looking for more info but just can’t seem to find it…

    thanks!

  21. zero34, the manufacturer is PC Henderson – I’d have to double check on the exact products…

  22. Aha – just found this from an older comment:

    We used the Henderson 290 which is on page 1136 of this pdf link http://www.builders-hardware.com/data/catalog/BHS_Catalog_DoorTrack.pdf

    The door slabs are best purschased in standard sizes of 6′-8″ tall by a standard width of anything from 30,32,34,and 36 inches. We gave a bit of overlap at each jambe of about 1 inche and that’s how we set the dimensions for the opening. You can also get 6′-10″ and 7ft tall doors pretty standard. anything wider than 36 inches or taller than 7 ft and you’ll pay a premium for custom sizes.

  23. Any tips or tricks on mounting your Seattle neighborhoods poster? Did you do it yourself? I’ve got an OrkPosters print of Vancouver myself and I’m finding the unique size impossible to find an affordable frame for. Amazing space by the way, fantastic inspiration shots.

  24. Hi Colinnone,

    I bought a thin piece of plywood from an art supply store (used for model building and that sort of thing). I had to trim the poster a tiny bit but there was enough of a border to do so. Then I just mounted it to the plywood using spray adhesive.

Leave a Reply